How to use
- Choose the tabletop shape and one unit, then measure the top itself rather than an existing cloth.
- Enter the desired finished drop from tabletop edge to cloth edge. For a floor-length result, measure actual table height instead of assuming a standard.
- If sewing, enter the hem or finishing allowance per cut edge. Leave it at zero for finished-size shopping only.
- Calculate and keep finished size separate from the larger cut size. Editing a measurement removes the old result.
Formula and interpretation
For rectangular and square tables, add twice the drop to each tabletop dimension. For a round table, add twice the drop to its diameter.
Cut size then adds twice the per-edge sewing allowance. This separates visible drop from material that will be folded, trimmed or finished.
Worked examples
Rectangular table
A 180 × 90 cm top with a 25 cm drop needs a 230 × 140 cm finished cloth. A 2 cm edge allowance makes the cut 234 × 144 cm.
Round table
A 120 cm diameter top with a 30 cm drop needs a 180 cm finished diameter; a 1.5 cm edge allowance gives a 183 cm cut diameter.
Limits and practical checks
- Measure folding leaves in the position in which the cloth will be used.
- A rectangular floor-length cloth may pool at the corners because corner distance is longer.
- Fabric width, seams, pattern direction, shrinkage and cutting layout are not optimized.
Frequently asked questions
Is drop the same as seam allowance?
No. Drop remains visible below the tabletop; allowance is extra material beyond the finished edge for sewing or finishing.
Can I size an oval cloth?
This page does not generate an oval pattern. A rectangular cloth over an oval top needs separate style and corner decisions.
Does floor length always mean 30 inches?
No. Enter the table’s measured height, minus any floor clearance you want.
Will this tell me how much fabric to buy?
No. Bolt width, joins, repeats and layout require a separate cutting plan.